Bells of Spring: Muguet and its charming designs
A fragrant tradition of good luck!
Bonjour from Paris, mes amis,
On May 1st, the streets of Paris come alive with one of the most beloved and fragrant traditions: lily of the valley, or muguet, as we say here. This morning, every street corner was blooming with tiny white bells lovingly tied with ribbons and sold by cheerful vendors, just like in the image from 1932.
This charming custom has deep roots, stretching all the way back to ancient Rome, where spring blooms were celebrated at the turn of April into May. The Celts had their own version too—Beltaine, marking the transition from the dark to the light season. And legend has it that on May 1, 1560, King Charles IX was gifted a sprig of lily of the valley while visiting the Dauphiné region. Touched by the gesture, he began offering the delicate flower each spring to the ladies of his court—a royal tradition was born.
But the story doesn't stop there. In the early 20th century, French fashion houses took a special liking to muguet. And jewelry houses, like Cartier did for the brooch on the first image, took nature as inspiration as well. This magnificent Belle Époque devant-de-corsage brooch was designed in 1912 and achieved a hammer price of $10,603,500 in 2019. The brooch’s floral composition has a delicate elegance that seems to defy gravity. Around this same time, fashion designers started gifting the flower to their seamstresses and loyal clients. None more famously than Christian Dior, who made lily of the valley his signature flower.
From embroidered gowns to iconic perfumes, and even an entire Spring/Summer 1954 collection called Muguet, this little bloom became a symbol of elegance, femininity, and renewal. Today, muguet can still be found in embroidery patterns, vintage textiles, antique porcelain, and delicate jewelry designs. Its graceful shape and symbolism make it a timeless motif to stitch, wear, or decorate with—especially in spring.
🌿 And because I know many of you love to keep your needles busy, I’ve prepared a free lily of the valley embroidery pattern for you to stitch at home. You'll find it waiting for you at the end of this letter.
I’ll admit—my personal favorite flowers are peonies, but there’s something about these dainty little bells that feels quintessentially French. They carry stories, superstitions, elegance... and a hint of nostalgia. I hope you’ll enjoy bringing them to life with thread and fabric. Here are four of my favorite examples:
A wall paper border from 1800:
A Givenchy jacket embroidered with a lily of the valley bouquet:
A Valentino dress from the Metropolitan Museum collection:
The take of Fabergé on the lily of the valley:
Wherever you are in the world, I’m sending you a virtual bouquet of muguet, wrapped in a ribbon of good luck, joy, and a little touch of French enchantment.
Nadia
Thank you, once again, for a beautiful message. I enjoyed every word and picture.